A New Probability Distribution Function of Wave Steepness

Wave steepness is an important characteristic describing the severity of sea state in ocean engineering. In the existing theoretical and experimental studies, wave steepness is often substituted by some related quantities. In this paper, a new probability density function (pdf) of steepness, which is a pdf of the steepness in its original definition, is obtained for narrowband Gaussian processes. The drawback inherent in the previous theoretical pdfs of steepness, that is, the probability density at zero steepness is nonzero, has been eliminated. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wind-wave flume to measure the wave steepness distribu- tion. Comparisons among laboratory measurements and some theoretical pdfs of steepness show that the new pdf generally fits the data better than the one proposed by Zheng et al. (1999).

作 者： JIANG Xiulan ZHENG Guizhen PEI Yuhua   作者單位： JIANG Xiulan(College of Physical and Environmental Oceanography, Ocean University of China, Qingdao 266003, P. R. China;School of Science, Qingdao Technological University, Qingdao 266033, P. R. China)

ZHENG Guizhen,PEI Yuhua(College of Physical and Environmental Oceanography, Ocean University of China, Qingdao 266003, P. R. China) 

刊 名： 中國海洋大學學報（英文版）  ISTIC 英文刊名： JOURNAL OF OCEAN UNIVERSITY OF CHINA  年，卷(期)： 2008 7(3)  分類號： P7  關鍵詞： wave   wave steepness   statistical distribution  

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